Between Piazza Frà Diavolo and the Medieval Castle stands the solitary Church of Saint Michael the Archangel, considered the oldest in Itri.
The church was built on the site of a former pagan temple dedicated to Aesculapius, traces of which are still evident. In the underground section, ancient vases, fine marbles, and medals have been discovered, suggesting the existence of a sanctuary dedicated to this deity. Aesculapius’ sanctuaries were typically erected on elevated locations, like the Sant’Angelo cliff. The cult of Aesculapius was introduced to central Italy around the 3rd century BC, with pilgrims bringing gifts and offerings to gain the deity’s favour. It is believed that the underground area served as a repository for votive offerings.
The church was built in the 11th century by the Normans and dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel. In the small square in front of it, two black mica granite columns, known as the “columns of justice,” marked the boundary of the right of asylum. Behind the columns, a stone staircase leads to the church entrance, which is divided into three naves: a broad central nave and two smaller side naves. The roof is wooden with trusses.
Behind the main altar is a wooden statue of Saint Michael the Archangel, dating back to the early 19th century. The saint is depicted standing, crushing the head of an infernal dragon beneath him. In his right hand, he holds a sword, and in his left, a scale, symbolising justice. The main altar, made of 18th-century marble, is well-preserved.
In the left nave is a marble altar with polychrome slabs and vine-shaped white marble decorations. On the central frontispiece of the altar frontal, the resurrected Christ is depicted.
Of particular note are the Romanesque columns, standing 2.10 metres tall, brought from Gaeta and placed at the entrance. These marble columns, with capitals depicting cherub heads and leaves, support the choir loft and rest on two crouching lions, symbolising the power of God. It is believed that the columns are remnants of the ancient temple.
At the entrance, in a niche, is a 14th-century fresco, now almost entirely faded. The artwork depicts the crucified Jesus with Saint John and the Madonna. At the centre is the Madonna with Child, holding a globe in her left hand. Flanking them are two saints, possibly Saint Elizabeth and Saint Joseph. Beneath the arch of the niche, medallions depict the twelve Apostles, the four Doctors of the Church, and eight Martyr Saints. The fresco, attributed to an artist from the Neapolitan school of the late 14th century, represents a significant example of the art of that period.
The church’s distinctive feature is its bell tower, positioned on the façade. Notable for its slender architectural rhythm and vibrant colours, it was restored under the supervision of the Superintendence. Dating back to the 11th century, it exhibits Arab-Norman influences, visible in the red brick bell chamber and ogival triforas. The uniqueness of the bell tower lies in its independence from the church structure, despite being attached to it.
